Tube amps do not have any type of voltage stabilization. Note a dim bulb isn't to be used other than for very initial testing as it restricts the current the amp can recieve. It is a good idea to run either a variac or a bucking transformer if your input voltage is a lot higher, bext place to check is the heater voltages to see if the transformer is being over volted.

I honestly haven't tried EL34 tubes yet in mine, I would just caluculate the cathode current/voltage to stay under their 25W limit and go for it :)

Sadly my video series proves they do not perform well out of the box and the schematic they used is well known to not be a good performer. As far as I know, they have not done anything to update these and short of rewiring them to the design I shared, they aren't going to. If you go with a SS rectifier, Be aware that doing that raises all the interal voltages, which should be taken into account.

My little 6LU8 is a banger and is a cheaper project to try as a first amp.

I honestly saw no difference in noise using a bulkhead, even using MU metal. I did notice a difference going to 7025 tubes and I also wonder if you wounded those caps applying reverse polarity even if they didn't explode? One other thing I found helps is use a LARGE guage solid core wire from the board to the ground, I noticed a difference going from 18g to 14g solid copper. And honestly these are going to have some noise if you hook them up and turn the volume to the max with no signal. I've found with the volume set at a listening level from the listening position, I don't hear anything. Also I noticed you aren't using shielded wire for the input/output, that could also help.

When you pull the board out, post a shot of the ground point at the front by the RCA jacks on both sides of the board, I've seen some of these where that ground point isn't actually connected to anything which can cause this. Even easier check that that this solder pad is actually connected to the board ground and that this point is the only board to chassis ground.

Yes it will be very obvious in a darkened room, watch the crease area of the plate under the side getter, at 90 degrees to the part of the plate that has holes in it. That's where the heat is concentraited.

I hear about hum from a lot of folks who try to lay this out like you have in a square chassis with the power supply board separated. If the hum is loud, that points to a ground loop issue. It also looks like you used external tube sockets?

Thanks for the update!!!

Every person who has heard one of mine just asks "how much do you want for it?" lol

I would use a 100K unit.

It will lower the input sensitivity, but it shouldn't kill the power output like that.

That looks like possibly something going on with the output transformer.

I have found a slight amount of overshoot sounds good. I've tuned amps to eliminate this and they sound dead/lifeless to me. It's important to measure the square waves to make sure the ringing doesn't continue into oscilations, but it's important to listen to the amp after adjusting the negative feedback or whatever you are using to tune the amp. After a while you will learn what the square wave of a good sounding amp looks like!

Honestly, the unloaded voltage isn't important :)

Placement in the room is critical to getting good low end out of rear ported speakers like this. I also covered the inside surfaces of mine with that butyl/aluminum sound deading sheeting in addition to the suppled material, which helps to deaden the MDF.

The resistor will have 0.6W across it so should be OK at 1W for temp use but for long term reliability 2W would be safer. And 5% resistors are OK, I would just try to get them as close to 10ohms as possible.

Looking so good!!!!!

I would use a 2W 470K seems to work well.

Is there a link to how this is implimented?