Question; when is Ohm's law just a suggestion? Power supply is wired, powered it up and I'm getting 478 +VDC at B+ on either feed. Same voltage out of the rectifier tube + out. In SOME schematics I've seen a 100 Ohm 10 watt resistor there (prior to any capacitors), so I ran some numbers and came up with a dropping resistor value of 240 ohms (478 to 430) at a nominal 0.201 Amps (what Hammond advertises the output as at the HV red leads). Took a pair of 470 ohm resistors (close enough) in parallel and clipped one side to B+ for one channel to compare. Nothing. No difference, same voltage output. It's been 40 years since physics, algebra, trig, calculus but this is simple arithmetic, not complicated derivitives or something, but NOTHING? Should I put the resistor UPstream (at the filament B+ side of the rectifier) FIRST? How/why should that make any difference? Thanks in advance.

Definitely NOT point "C." That's AC voltage at that point. Point B will STILL have an enormous amount of ripple when the idea is to get the 6.3 VAC heater voltage riding atop a 50 VDC "offset" exactly why I'm not entirely sure, so it HAS to be Point A. But which line? And how to compensate for the current draw from that side's anode? Meaning, 50 VDC tapped off 430 + VDC leave 380 + VDC for the other circuit. There's "magic" in that circuit somewhere, I tell ya.

I'm betting Stephe shows where to make the connection in the videos. I found a burner for my Linux laptop and put them all on my android and my iPad for further review. Waiting for an input selector switch or I'd probably be done by now.

I watched that a few months back. Mesmerizing. But how is she going to do any tube-rolling?🤣

I went ahead and blew a few bucks a while back and bought 600V teflon silver-plated solid copper 18g wire in several colors from a guy in California who sells on ePay. I wasted money on a box of multi-colored PVC-coated wiring from the global jungle sales site and the melting point of the PVC is so low as to make it nearly useless. I recycled it all. Teflon doesn't melt, shrink or offgas at normal soldering temps/times and the silver coating conducts heat/electricity really well.

And THAT made all the difference. That "extra" 50 VAC violet line and the arrow pointing TOWARDS B+ (not towards the CT at 6.3 lines for the heaters) really mixed me up. I'm obviously less than a novice (been troubleshooting, fixing SS and tube amps - and a handful of old Heathkit HF ham radio linear amps - by reading manuals and instinct mostly since the early 70's but I lack a fundamental grounding in circuit design and function. I can read schematics to a degree but it's not second nature figuring out the what and the whys). There's another person here asking a question I still have in mind and figured I'd glean from your videos and that is exactly from what point in the circuit is the "COnnect to B+" connected? He drew a picture showing takeoff before the 10H choke, at the takeoff of the two 1.5H chokes, or one of the B+ lines into one of the 300b tubes. Pulling down 50VDC from ONE tube will offset power output, won't it?

I have this from this website. It's the 374bx wiring which is just different enough that it's confused me.

I've been wrong before but this is going to take some time to really wrap my head around. Thank you for taking the time to straighten me out here. Back to the bench...